Despite the many variables of life and culture you can encounter while traveling the world, one aspect that seems to translate to every place is marijuana. As a stoner on the go, my travel nerves are calmed knowing that wherever I end up, there will be a marijuana scene to immerse myself in. Rio de Janeiro held true to this and delivers an epic place to make a friend, roll one up and take it all in. Just as in America, Brazil has a history with weed: good, bad and ugly. Marijuana is controlled by the cartels running operation out of the favelas, and it is a massive industry. Inland, towards the coast and away from the favelas, there are people seeking out weed, locals and tourists alike, looking to blaze up in Brazil.
Even though weed is completely illegal in Brazil – growing, selling, consuming in any form – it doesn’t mean there isn’t a strong culture of marijuana. As one would expect, beach life breeds stoners, so naturally there are surfer dude stoners, sun bathing stoners, starving artist stoners and more along the multiple beaches running the coast of Rio de Janeiro. Luckily, my boyfriend is Carioca (born in the City), and still has family in the area so no sketchy introductions for a hook-up are necessary, which could be dangerous for those not keeping wits about them. If you are one of the unfortunate souls who don’t have a dealer on the ready, there is still hope for you! Chances are you will visit Copacabana and Ipanema areas, two of the most famous beaches in the world, and there you will find Post 9, of 12 posts marking areas of the beach. Each post corresponds to a type of person who typically hang there, with post 9 being stoners. Urca would be another chance for finding a hook-up. It’s a neighborhood flanked by a rock wall known for the wonderful sunsets into the surrounding mountains. Get there early before the crowd to find a spot, grab some beers at the local boteco (bodega) and enjoy the view! Once dusk sets in, the crowd thins down and the joints come out.
This was my second trip to Rio so it was time to do a bit more exploring off the beaten path. My first trip was all about the classic draws of Rio: the Christ, Sugarloaf Mountain, walks along Copa and Ipanema beaches. This trip was all about relaxation, family and food, which means lots of smoking across the board. We took a few days in Arraial do Cabo, two hours east of Rio, known for the numerous and beautiful beaches, which for Brazil means something. I have to say this was the most beautiful place I’ve experienced so far! Arraial do Cabo is where Cariocas vacation so it is small-town, slow-paced and Portuguese-speaking, but also breathtaking and much more affordable than Rio. It’s perfect for a long weekend away from the City and a place to relax and do not much else. As you can only imagine, half our day was spent swaying in the hammock on the airy porch with a joint in one hand and a book in the other. Life moves at a slower pace in these areas outside the city. On the occasion we found ourselves wanting to exert energy, a walk on the beach or a hike over to one of the other many beaches made for another scenic smoke session. Just make sure to bring your smoke with you to Arraial do Cabo, or anywhere you venture outside the main city limits of Rio, because, worse than finding no connections, would be to find a sketchy one.
Full disclosure, by the way: Weed in Brazil is NOT like weed in the U.S. Since marijuana is completely illegal in Brazil, there is no mainstream research or cultivation happening. Marijuana is left to underground production and distribution, which makes it less accepted and riskier. Sticking to certain neighborhoods in the main city area, such as Urca or Lapa, is your best bet to connect with someone to satisfy your stoner needs. Lapa is a lively, colorful neighborhood with a late-night crowd and there is a funky “smoke” shop there, Smonkey, with a bong display amid the graffiti wall art. Although you can’t really do anything weed-related in the shop, they do sell everything else you might need to smoke, just not the bud itself. But they do offer a variety of aged and flavored cachaca, Brazil’s sugarcane rum. Even if they did offer bud at Smonkey, the vibrant-colored, fluffy, aromatic buds we are familiar with are nowhere to be found in Brazil. Instead, you’ll be breaking up dense, pressed brown sticks or squares of unrecognizable herb. Last thing to note: it will definitely get you high anyway.
One of the best parts of being in Rio is cruising from beach to beach (Leme, Copacobana, Ipanema, Leblon) on the rentable city bikes. The further out we venture each view gets a little more spectacular, only to be heightened by sharing a joint in a secluded area off the beaten path. The beaches all have a vibe of their own and something new to experience, but wherever you end up there will be “chopp”, or draft beer. A perfectly poured chopp is exactly what you’ll need to quench your thirst and take the edge off the beaming sun. Taking a bike ride every morning is a great way to see the full span of beauty that is Rio, and is always worth the rewards we enjoy along the way.
Once a proper high has been reached and hunger built, it is time to eat in Rio! I adore Brazilian food, not only for what it is but how it is enjoyed. Part of stoner culture is the communal aspect in passing a joint around a group. Food evokes that same sharing, communal mentality and Brazilian food lends itself perfectly to this. Typical fare consists of a main meat(s) dish on a large platter with various classic side dishes: feijao, farofa, vinagrete salsa, couve a mineira (garlic collard greens), potatoes and rice. Another classic: churrasquiera. It’s like the best BBQ grill party you’ve ever been to with endless servings that lasts for hours. Even though I’m on vacation when I’m in Rio, I still find myself counting down the days until Friday arrives because it means one thing: feijoada. Nothing satisfies my munchies, usually more than I can handle, like this traditional dish of black beans stewed with different cuts of meat. Lots of hearty stews served with starchy sides and washed down with light, refreshing chopp is definitely the way to eat right in Brazil.
Most of the best, and typical style, of Brazilian food is simple and hearty, but there are plenty of fancier, eclectic options as well. Marius, located in Copacabana, is a churrasquiera restaurant with a salad bar that takes up two rooms and an option to add seafood to your all-you-can-eat tab. The price is on the higher side, but come hungry and don’t load up on the salad bar, and it is totally worth the endless delicious meats rotating to your table, and delivered to you directly if you make a request. Moreover, Marius is quite an experience just looking at the decor. The walls of Marius are completely covered in things. Anything: tea cups, dolls, shells, beads, clocks, cars on the ceilings! It is a bit kitschy, but I was focused on my plate more than anything in the end.
Another of those experiences is the Michelin star restaurant, Lasai, in the Botafogo section of Rio. This was the most amazing meal I’ve ever had, and too much to go into here, so check back for my next post on our night at Lasai! There seems to be a food movement occurring in Rio, and throughout Brazil, and I am happy to be experiencing the benefits.
While we all enjoy the finer things in life from time to time, simple joys are the ones we really crave. Two places that will remain a “must-go” in Rio for me is Galeto Sats and Cervantes. Gelato Sats makes amazing roasted cornish hens, or gelato, “little chicken”, which is commonly found on menus all around Rio. However, Galeto Sats is extremely charming and old, school and has become famous for a visit from Anthony Bourdain (RIP). Then there is Cervantes. Not only do they truly pour the best chopp in the world, the menu is simple but just what every drunken patron showing up at 2:00 AM is looking for: sandwiches with pineapple. All different meat options with cheese and pineapple on a sandwich is something I didn’t know I loved until I visited Cervantes. The pork and filet mignon are our personal favorites. But careful, you may be tempted to somehow deconstruct the sandwich, package in tupperware and successfully smuggle it onto the plane to take home, like we did. For real, we did that. They are that good. Eat at your own risk!
